I arrived late last Saturday, it was dark already but I was so thrilled to walk out of my gate at the airport and see my Mom and Mark waiting there to greet me. We got a cab to the hotel, not willing to tackle the metro late at night when we were all so travel weary, dropped our things and immediately went in search of food - a theme we maintained throughout the trip :-). And oh the food we ate... I've had Greek food and it was always delicious but this was a whole new experience. The break and the meat and the cheese and the tomatoes. And the potatoes! And the fish! The souvlaki and kebabs and tzatziki and the olives (yes those of you that know my eating habits, I ate olives, with enthusiasm). And the desserts! The fill and honey and nuts, we had cakes and cookies and pastries and gelato. Lastly, but most importantly, there was the coffee. I don't think I had ever had Greek coffee before and ohhhhh my, game changed, Greek coffees all day every day. They also make these amazing cappuccino freddos here which I had never had. They are strong coffee (usually with some sugar) iced and topped with the densest most amazing foam you have ever seen. The milk foam is cold and you mix it in with the coffee and drink it and realize what you have been missing your entire life is this experience. Hot weather and cold coffee and foamy milk goodness. I don't know how I will go on without this joy in my life, I suppose I will just have to bring it back with me. I watched carefully how it was made and I will need some new equipment but believe you me I will master the art of cappuccino freddo.
Mom and Mark and I spent a day in Athens and then drove out to Nafplio. We actually ended up staying in a small village called Drepanos outside of Nafplio which was sweet and tiny. I did all the driving and wow, what an experience. I faired pretty well but I didn't drive in Athens and I'm sure it would've given me an ulcer if I had tried. Rules of the road are more like suggestions of the road here. But they all seem to manage. Our first day in Drepanos we walked down to the beach and about two houses down from where we were staying a big dog adopted us. There are tons of stray dogs and cats in Greece and after a few days we kind of guessed that she wasn't completely a stray but she was definitely an outdoor dog that had all the freedom she could want. She walked us all the way down to the beach, saying hello to people we passed and teasing other dogs that were locked up. Then at the beach she left us and we said goodbye. We spent a few hours down there, walked and had a coffee (of course) and when we finally headed home (dark by now) out she came from behind a bush to escort us home! She was very sweet and greeted us every day.
Nafplio was beautiful, it used to be the capital city of Greece and its beauty has been preserved wonderfully. Tiny alleyways wind around houses and villas, stairways that seem to go nowhere but up curve around and dump you on main roads. There are cacti and vines and palm trees and flowers and fruit trees everywhere and ancient ruins up on top of the hill. We could have stayed there for days I think just wandering those streets.
Back in Drepanos we discovered a local butcher who also had a small restaurant. Family run business and all the kids and friends and family were there every night. Very warm and welcoming people and the food was amazing. When Mom and Mark finally had to go on to Berlin I went back to Athens with the. And saw them off at the airport, I was sad to see them go but so happy to have been able to spend time with them, and eat everything in sight with them X-D
I spent the last two days (well one and a half, I spent half of Friday lost and wandering in the suburbs of Athens, my own fault!) with my Aunt Patsy here in Athens. She is a wonderful woman who I think is actually a second cousin, so warm and welcoming. We went downtown together and I bought some trinkets and we had coffee, then she took me to see my Papu's (grandfathers) sister who is 92 (!!!) and doing great. She doesn't speak English but when she realized who I was she leapt us from her seat (92 remember, leapt) and gave me a great big hug and lots of kisses. She was so sweet and I got to meet her daughter and granddaughter (my 2nd and 3rd cousins? Who knows) also who were again, so warm and sweet and happy to see me. I am so pleased that I was able to make The Greek Connection and I can't wait to come back and see them again, and meet more of my family who live on the island!
And now I am on my way to Palma de Majorca to finally stay for a few weeks and do some gardening and animal care. I will be glad to set down some semi permanent roots for a short time and collect my bearings again. All this travel has been spectacular but dizzying also.
See Facebook and Instagram for photos, can't be bothered to put them up in 3 different places on airport internet. But here are my two favorites:
Alex
So glorious. As always, thank you for your writing and taking me along with you. I can't wait to try your coffee one day...
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